How to Make Mokume Gane Technique with Polymer Clay
Learn how to make polymer clay earrings, necklaces and jewelry with the Mokume Gane technique!
These are stunning pieces of art and a blast to create!
WHAT IS MOKUME GANE?
One of my favorite technique discoveries in polymer clay is the mokume gane technique.
It’s a Japanese metalworking technique, similar to Damascus, traditionally used to create layered patterns that look like wood grain metal, and it translates beautifully into polymer clay.
It’s a simple technique, incredibly forgiving, and honestly just so much fun to experiment with—even if you’re trying a new technique for the first time.
This tutorial walks through how I made earrings and a pendant necklace using thin polymer clay veneers that reveal layers of color in a stunning metal-grain pattern.
Many polymer clay artists love this method because you get best results with minimal tools and endless design options, and a great way to use scrap polymer clay.
Let's get started!
Supplies Needed for Polymer Clay Mokume Gane Jewelry:
- Arteza Polymer clay in blue, teal, green, orange, yellow, pink
- Translucent clay (or Black sheets and white clay for the backing)
- Pasta machine
- Acrylic roller, Acrylic rod or Clay Rolling pin
- Earring Cutters, Leaf and teardrop cookie cutters (or similiar)
- Craft blade
- Piece of parchment paper or Piece of paper
- Baby wipe (for clean hands between colors)
- UV resin + UV lamp
- Sandpaper
- High-speed rotary tool (drill and sanding bits)
- Jewelry hardware
- Jewelry Pliers
- Oven (follow manufacturer’s firing schedule)
- Texture mat, texture stamp, or texture roller
Step 1: Create the Clay Stack
Start with a clean work surface.
Roll each color of polymer clay through your pasta machine on the thickest setting.
Use a ruler and blade to cut each sheet into the same size.
Stack your colors into a neat clay stack—I used blue, teal, green, orange, yellow, and pink.
For extra contrast, you can add black sheets or place white clay near the top of the black layer so the pattern really pops.
Keep the black side facing downward if you’re stacking light colors on top.
Gently compress the stack using an acrylic roller or rolling pin.
You don’t want to distort the layers yet—just press them together.
I cut each piece of clay to a 4x4" square so they would stack together neatly.
You can use any series of colors you like, I picked these brights because they are my favorite colors...and they are arranged in rainbow order for beautiful blending.
Now roll out the stack with an acrylic roller.
The clay doesn't need to be made very thin, but just to reinforce the bonds between each layer.
Step 2: Add Texture
This is where the magic starts.
Press a leaf-shaped and teardrop cookie cutter straight down into the clay, cutting into all the layers without removing the shapes.
You’re creating raised areas and valleys across the surface.
You can also press in a texture stamp, texture mat, or texture roller a couple of times to add even more interest.
Wipe tools with a baby wipe between presses to keep colors clean.
Once textured, use your acrylic rod to gently roll the surface smooth again.
Step 3: Repeat and Refine
Repeat the teardrop cuts across the surface in overlapping patterns.
Roll smooth again.
This push-and-pull process creates complex internal layers, which is what gives mokume gane its signature look.
If the clay feels sticky, place it on a piece of parchment paper and let it rest for a minute.
Step 4: Reveal the Pattern
Condition a sheet of translucent clay on the thinnest setting of your pasta machine—this will become your backing clay.
Using a sharp blade, shave thin slices from the top of the mokume gane stack.
Each thin layer reveals the layered color pattern—this is the moment where it really starts to look like wood grain metal.
Aim for a thinner veneer for the most delicate pattern.
Lay each slice onto the translucent backing and gently roll it in place.
Fill the translucent clay sheet with the colorful thin slices.
The thinner you can slice the clay, the more you can use it for beautiful jewelry.
Finally roll out the clay so the surface becomes smooth.
Don't over roll it or it will get too thin for jewelry, it should be about 1/8th inch thick.
Step 5: Shape the Jewelry
Roll the combined clay sheet again on the thinnest setting for a smooth finish.
Cut out earring shapes, necklace pendants, or any jewelry forms you love.
If you have leftover bits, save them as scrap polymer clay—they’re perfect for future veneers or accents.
Step 6: Bake and Finish
Place pieces on a baking tile or piece of paper and bake according to the clay manufacturer’s firing schedule.
After baking and cooling sand edges smooth with sandpaper or rotary sanding bit.
Step 7: Apply Resin for a Glossy Finish
Once your baked pieces are completely cool and the edges are sanded smooth, it’s time to add resin. This step really enhances the mokume gane pattern and gives the jewelry a professional, glass-like finish.
Start by wiping the surface of each piece with a baby wipe to remove any sanding dust. Place the jewelry flat on a piece of parchment paper or a silicone mat to protect your work surface. Make sure the pieces are level so the resin doesn’t pool to one side.
Using UV resin, apply a small amount to the top surface only. A toothpick or silicone tool works great for guiding the resin into the raised areas and out toward the edges. Take your time—thin, even coats give the best results. If resin flows over the edge, gently pull it back onto the surface before curing.
Once the resin is in place, cure it under a UV lamp according to the resin manufacturer’s instructions. This usually takes 1–2 minutes. If needed, apply a second thin layer and cure again for extra shine and durability.
Allow the resin to fully harden before moving on to drilling holes and adding hardware. The glossy surface really highlights the layered color and metal-grain effect, making the finished earrings and pendant look polished and professional.
Step 8: Drill Holes and Attach Jewelry Hardware
After the resin is fully cured and hardened, it’s time to turn your clay pieces into wearable jewelry. This is the final step where everything really comes together.
Place the earring or pendant piece on a stable surface, such as a folded towel or a piece of scrap wood, to keep it from slipping. Using a high-speed rotary tool with a small drill bit, carefully drill a hole at the top of each piece. Go slowly and use light pressure—let the tool do the work to avoid cracking the clay or chipping the resin.
Once the holes are drilled, brush away any dust with a soft cloth or baby wipe. If needed, lightly sand around the hole for a clean finish.
Open a jump ring using jewelry pliers and thread it through the drilled hole. For earrings, attach earring hooks or posts. For necklaces, add a jump ring or bail and string the pendant onto a chain or cord. Make sure all jump rings are closed securely so the jewelry stays durable and comfortable to wear.
At this point, your mokume gane polymer clay earrings and necklace are completely finished and ready to wear or gift.
Each piece showcases the layered color and beautiful metal-grain effect that makes this favorite technique such a standout in polymer clay jewelry making.
USE THOSE LEFTOVER CLAY SCRAPS:
One of my favorite parts of working with the mokume gane technique is that absolutely nothing has to go to waste.
All the leftover bits and scrap polymer clay from this project can be used in a phase 2 as a whole new batch of jewelry.
Gather the scraps and place them on your work surface, then chop everything up into small pieces.
Then add a small amount of translucent liquid clay to the pieces and roll them around to lightly coat all the pieces.
Place a sheet or two of gold and silver leaf for extra shimmer on top of the pieces.
Gather all the chopped clay firmly into a solid block and gently roll it smooth with an acrylic roller.
Just like before, slice off thin layers from the top of the block, place those slices onto translucent clay, and roll them flat.
Cut out new earring and pendant shapes, bake, resin, and finish as usual.
This extra step is such a fun way to stretch your materials and create a second round of jewelry that feels completely different while still tying back to the original mokume gane designs.
This mokume gane technique is such a rewarding process—every slice is a surprise, and no two pieces ever turn out the same. Whether you’re a beginner or one of many experienced polymer clay artists, this method delivers best results with minimal stress and maximum creativity.
If you’ve never tried it before, I highly recommend giving it a go—it’s seriously much fun, and I guarantee you’ll want to make just one more stack.
That's it!
Mokume Gane technique is amazing, I love how it blends intention with a little bit of surprise—every slice reveals something unexpected and completely unique.
From building the initial color stack to revealing those beautiful metal-grain patterns, this process is a reminder that polymer clay doesn’t have to be complicated to be stunning.
Whether you’re trying a new technique, using up scraps, or refining a method you already love, mokume gane offers endless possibilities for earrings, pendants, and statement pieces that truly feel one of a kind.
I hope this tutorial inspires you to experiment, play with color and texture, and most of all, have fun creating jewelry that looks like tiny works of art.
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